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Decoder Installation into a

Bachmann Plus
SP Daylight #4449  4-8-4

Locked rotor stall current:  1.1A @12V.       Supplied headlight: 31mA @ 12V.  Smoke generator:  161mA @ 12V.

For your information, I used a DH83FX decoder for this installation.

There is going to be some work involved with this locomotive.  Since the locomotive is weighted so well and Bachmann used a minimum of wire, this won't be an easy install.  But it will be worth it.  You have DCC controlled smoke, mars light, rear head light, and firebox flicker when done.

You will need a decoder with similar capabilities as the DH83FX.  You should use a decoder rated for 2 amps though you would probably be okay to use a 1 amp decoder.  You definitely need a decoder rated for 200 mA to use the smoke generator.  The smoke generator is extremely delicate.  I failed at being able to solder to it's wires without breaking it.  You almost have no chance of success.  I'm not big on smoke generators so I just tossed mine in the trash.

Removing the guts of the locomotive may appear to be more difficult than it should be.  The secret it that after removing the front and rear underside screw, you will need to pry on the rear a bit to get it come free.  The reason is that Bachmann has a plastic post that sticks into the undercarriage and is a fairly tight fit.  Just pry straight up.

Dissecting the guts to get to the motor  is somewhat tricky, too. Remove the short silver screw to the wire on the right rear of the weight. 

Remove the two black short screws from under the drive wheels. 

Remove two black screws from the front and rear sides of the weight.  Look carefully on the opposite side of the weight.  There is a plastic plug in these two places.  Push the plug out from the side the screws were. Btween the weight, plastic spacers will fall on the floor and you may loose them.  Go ahead and look for them now, I'll wait. 

The plastic under the wheels is hooked under the front edge of the weight.  Pry on the plastic under the drive wheels. Hidden behind the rear most driver you will find another screw, plug, and spacer. 

With the locomotive upside down, pry on the rear edge of the plastic under the wheels.  While lifting push forward.

With your third hand, pry up and out the best you can between the plastic and the weights between the cylinders. 

With your fourth hand, pry the plastic lip that is hooked under the front edge of the weight forward.

This thing is really hooked good.  It took a few hours of looking for something I was missing. Eventually it popped free without a "snap!"  Whew!

You are right, the plastic plugs and screws didn't have to be removed before this bottom piece was removed.  But if you were prying and prying like I was, you wouldn't believe this don't have to be removed first.  You would also be worrying I left out and instrution and you would be looking for a screw I forgot to tell you to remove.  If you have faith in me, do steps 3 and 4 after step 7.

Whatever you do, don't remove the plastic cylinders off the weights.  As much as the supplied drawing implicates them, they are not involved in taking the locomotive apart.

Remove the drive wheel sets.  Leave them attached to the valve gear.

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